HDCu New Pond build
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    At the moment work is being done to finish my new pond. It has already taken three weeks to dig and hopefully another few more days to finish it.





















    Here is the final design of my new pond(my own design)

    Photobucket

    Here is the design of the shower(bakki) filter
    Photobucket

    This was the my previous pond before it was demolished more than a month ago.
    My old garden pond setup

    Note: There is purposely no UV setup. Expected Water change will be 1 ton a day or flushing one filter set every other day. I welcome comments.
  • lautslauts June 2012
    Posts: 1,246
    Bro HDCu,

    Have you considered a T opening into the filter chamber and ends at sump chamber ?
    This way you can flush the BD piping as well as flush the pond bottom.

    Also consider 6'' instead of 4" for BD piping ? Both size has its advantage but i find 6" more flexible for use should you decide to increase turnover etc. Difficult to get settlement if water too fast flow thro filter chambers. Settlements in the BD piping is good ( this is controversial though) , with T at filter and ending at sump , a good flush cleans the BD , leaving your filters needing less cleaning. But this needs some piping calculation to get right.

    ts
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Darling,
    I dont get it...U said vertical river flow...What is that? and how do U achieve it?
    I can see returns on all corners...pointing at each other...and BD in the center...can U explain how this will work? How is the water going to flow?
    Bro Lauts,
    I did not understand what U are saying....
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Bro Lauts,

    I did consider a 6 inch pipe but ended up with two 4 inch pipe to serve 5600GPH pump. I reckon this is more than enough to get a pressure suction to constantly push any dirt out of the pipes. In the event that the event suction is still too strong to disturb the settlement, I will just add some baffle.

    Sis Neli,

    It should read horizontal flow or diagonal flow and not vertical. My mistake. Actually the flow is in the form of a "S" with a water pressure slightly higher as the depth going to the left side decreases instead of a straight horizontal flow which is found in ERIC system. The sloping daigonal design of the filter bay is design also for easier flushing of dirt going to the drain pipes.

    With regards to the TPR or tangental pond return, I will be putting a rotational/adjustable outlet pipe and gate valves at four of these corners TPR so I can choose and rotate whatever flow pattern( clockwise, counterclockwise, left to right, or right to left). I have the option to increase flow of the TPR while also lessenening the flow to the bakki showers or vice versa.

    The two bottom drain with very steep inclination from side to center is design for faster and thorough suction of all corners regardless of the flow direction of water from the TPR or air bubble position.

    The design also has option to add in the future two more pumps by separating the bakki shower design and the horizontal river flow filtration thereby possibly increasing turnover rate to 3 to 4x depending on the water drawdown on the filter.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-06-07 08:29:29 pm
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Thanks,
    Now I get it...U will have one circle around both drains...That is what I saw in Japan at Mr Tanaka's pond...even in his 90000l pond with 3 BD...his flow is oval around the 3 BD...
    About the erick stream or river flow in the filters...That is what I want to do too...With a pump dedicated to each filter, with an option to add one more pump for Bukki. I am putting two x4" pipes between the chambers, one higher one lower...with a T at the end...short pipes at each end of the T blocked with lots of slots to distribute the water both horizontally and vertically in the filter chamber..
    Never seen it done...dont know if it will work..alternative is to make on one side of the chamber a slot like post office box like the erick filter...but I think my idea will distribute the flow better.
  • monscinemonscine June 2012
    Posts: 223
    Bro HDCu,

    May I know why you choose to put the depth on 1.8m? Is it because you concern on the volume of the water?
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Bro Monscine,

    I made it at 1.8m at the deepest part to create a stronger bowl flush effect with 1.4m at the sides sloping to 1.8m. Also, since my ground is solid bedrock, the water will be much cooler at deeper depth even without use of chiller or fibreglassing the pond at deeper temperature because of heat conduction. My aim is to achieve 24 to 25 C without any chiller.

    I dont really buy yet the arguement that pond deeper than four feet causes swim bladder problems as Ive seen other deep ponds with huge kois with no swim bladder problems.

    Lower dissolved oxygen at the deeper water will be solved as the TPR will be position slightly downward to push highly oxygenated water from filter downwards and a higher than normal water turnover while japanese airtubes should produce fine bubbles.

    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-06-08 07:25:32 am
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Sorry to but in...In Japan ponds are...at Oishi Koi farm...their shallowest pond is...2m deep...Mr Tanakas pond is 2.5 meter deep...His Koi are in it for 4 years now...and have won many awards at All Japan...He is a Japanese hobbyist...very serious one...and his pond was designed by Japanese professional pond builder.
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Bro ICU why not put second deeper return...TPR...He he he!, directed slightly downwards...at 50cm above floor?
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Sis Neli,

    The TRP are just 50cm below water surface level. As pressure is higher at greater depth, the waterflow output of the sequence pump would be considerably less. It would be more practical for me to just drop several wavemakers sucking in fine airbubbles at the bottom of the pond.

    I am not that comfortable at going deeper than 1.8m because of the potential lower dissolved oxygen at the bottom.
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Bro,
    I was not suggesting U go deeper...mine will be also 1.8 meter...I was trying to reassure u that that depth is OK, judging by what I saw...
    Is sequence a low pressure pump?
    From the research i did , I found a formula that says that the velocity of the water in the pond...is directly proportional to the velocity of water coming out of the TPR...
    So I have decided for my pond...better few TPR, with high velocity than many with lower velocity...they will do better job of cleaning the floor...JMHO.
    So I will even reduce my TPR to 1.5 " at the end...to get better velocities...
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Sis Neli,

    The number of TPR would depend on the number of corners of your pond. If its a circular pond, even one strong TPR would do well already.
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Not necessarily Darling,
    Look at this...it works! Not the best but good enough... I think it will depend on the shape of the pond ..yes! But a lot more on the velocity of the TPR...
    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7137/TPR Flow.jpg
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    As of today, the pond is not yet finish... I am updating some work pictures so please bear with me.

    Photobucket
    Above picture is the rough cement build of the shower filter and the "S" type horizontal flow filter.

    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 03:41:52 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket
    Above picture shows all wall tiling replaced with a side ledge installed to put some future potted plants..
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 02:35:04 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket
    Above picture shows filter compartment and shower setup almost complete. Shower height is just 0.4 meters but it is 3 layers and will contain 100 liters of Siporax rings. The side vents are tilted to avoid spillage and will draw in air.
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket
    Above shows one of my employee carefully drilling the 600 plus 1/8 inch holes of the shower pipe. The 4 inch shower pipe can be removed easily for maintenance and is connected in the middle with a valve. The intention here is that there are two pumps, one on the left and one on the right. In the event, one pump needs to be service the valve can be open and the shower will still flow through the whole pipe.

    To make the holes precision placed, I printed aligned dots on a bar code printer sheet and sticked it to the pipe instead of using a ruler and marking it with a pen. A milling machine was use.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 03:19:38 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket

    Painting was done after cement was allowed to cure for a very long time. Paint use as two coats of marine epoxy primer and marine epoxy black topcoat. 4 meters of airhose was installed with 1 meter on opposite side and a two meter on the perpendicular side. The two meter airhose will be powered by a 100lpm Airmac pump while each one of the one meter airhose will be powered by a respective 60 lpm airmac pump. All airline are kept in place with clip holders and are designed to be pulled out for easy maintenace.
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket

    Installing stainless steel angle bar supports for the shower filter layer and the guide rail for the filter decking
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket

    Installing the pipes of the pumps. Two sequence 5800 gph pumps was installed to provide a turnover of around 2.2x. The flowback return was designed with flexibility to be able to choose to run only bakki for maximum aeration and/or below water to provide a strong current(either left to right, right to left, counter clockwise or clockwise current).

    For the filter decking, wood plastic composite outdoor decking was used because of its light weight, resistance to water, molds and fungi and warping. After everything is done, all pipes will be hidden by the decking.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 03:10:24 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Photobucket

    Pictures shows the arrangement of the mechanical filter( just 3 rows of brushes connected together for easy pull up and put in place by stainless angle bar guides.) The arrangement of each module of japanese mats are compact with only 12 mm space in between and hold together by plastic rods and spacers.)

    Between each module block of japanese mat there is aeration to disturb the water as it flows horizontally. There are two pull out pipe for each filter bay with the filter bay inclined slightly downwards for an effective drain.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 04:35:38 pm

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Sign In Apply for Membership