HDCu New Pond build
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Thats it for now. I'll post some new updates in the coming days.
  • pslongpslong August 2012
    Posts: 288
    Wow! Nice details!
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro HDCu,
    The pond paint look like not smooth. Are you using roller to paint?
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Bro Harry,

    I think they used brush. They had a hard time with the epoxy primer as it set too fast. I told them not to thin the primer as the it will create pinholes when it dries and problem with adhesion. However, I checked the final paint job. Its not slippery smooth but Its not rough either. The bond is very strong.
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    I use spray gun with big orifice, specially use for epoxy, resin (fiberglass) or lacquer.
    It spray a lot compare to normal spray gun, 1 gravity based can is use to spray less than 5minutes, clean the can with thinner and mix another round.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • ShukriShukri August 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro HDCu,
    Really looked real modern setup with tiles and all........Hopefully, you have considered the ease of maintenance to come with it.......
    So far looks good bro......
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • mangkellmangkell August 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Bead Filter promoter....... Beware.... :-D
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • ashfaqashfaq August 2012
    Posts: 797
    Brother Aznaan you are also one the promoter of Thor-x :-))
    Thanks,
    Ashfaq from India-Chennai
  • ShukriShukri August 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Did I mention anything with regards to Bead filter here?
    Or is EASE of Maintenance equals Bead filter? I don't think so.
    More of a Bead filter are easy to maintain, and so are many other systems I think. :-D
    Post edited by Shukri at 2012-08-13 10:48:07 pm
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112

    In designing the pond, I have considered three things. 1. Provide the best water condition for growth and improve the quality of the koi at a lower energy footprint 2. No interuption of filtration during cleanup and 3. ease of maintenance. 4. ability to adapt

    Im presently thinking if I can make a DIY cleaning high pressure spray contraption that can be placed above and in between the module and after the brush so that after the water is drained out I can just activate it and all the remaining dirt that are trapped will drain away. That way I dont need to pull out the jap mats or take out the jet spray.
    :-?
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-13 08:06:01 pm
  • mangkellmangkell August 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Yes... Yes...

    Only the Ones who eat Chilli will feel the Hot.... He.. He.. ;-)

    Any translation to BM?

    THOR-OX™ :-t is different Bro Ashfaq.... Kind of Value for Money......

    Other Good system like Bead Filter, FATS, ERICS..... They are Money for Value.... Got It? :-?
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    "Im presently thinking if I can make a DIY cleaning high pressure spray contraption that can be placed above and in between the module and after the brush so that after the water is drained out I can just activate it and all the remaining dirt that are trapped will drain away. That way I dont need to pull out the jap mats or take out the jet spray. "

    Cannot totally clean it bro, have to take out and clean it. But cleaning thiss way, especially with ChinaImat, it maybe last for 1year only.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Bro Harry,

    Actually, I was thinking of spraying the japanese mats with fiberglass resins before using it to make it really stiff and longer lasting. What do you think?
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Still cannot work,fiberglass resin is actually easily to break, that why we need a few layer of mat to make fiberglass stronger.

    i think you better change to matala mat if you can find one. Matala mat better but cost more. I usually use coarse one, for better distribution flow. But this can cause problem if your mechanical filtration is not powerful enough. If i have big enough filtration chamber, using bioball can be an option. And try using minimum media filtration first, 5pcs of japmat is actually enough for nitrification purpose. Do test your ammonia,nitrite and nitrate daily, and see the result.

    You can save extra bucks for later improvement, in case you need to add another equipment. 5 pcs japmat + your shower is already "overstock". Yesterday i just got angry, when some dealer came to pond that i built and maintenance. He kept telling the owner, not enough biological media. And yes, ihave a few empty chamber which i use for settlement fine particles. This dealer keep saying, it is a waste, build a chamber but not putting anything. The owner also add 4tiers of BS without consult with me a few month earlier.

    When the owner confront me and asking to put more media. I answer with most logical answer even i think a small child can understand. I did testing ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 25ppm. Adding media as this stage is waste on money, what you expect to culture? Bacteria? Can this nitrification bacteria live without any ammonia? Nitrate is usually below 10, now become 25ppm because i found out, that BS media is never cleaned. The accumulated debris that trap in BH and other stone will always form ammonia.

    Adding overstocked media not always good, and if not properly clean, it make pond condition worst. If you planned to use japmat as mechanical filter, it is fine but you have to clean it regularly.
    I am not suggesting you believe everything i write here. But do test and check, and hopefully you understand what i mean.

    Cheers
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Bro Harry,

    I do know what you mean with regards to organic waste that sticks to filter media will release ammonia that needs to be taken care of. My problem is that each pump is rated at 5800gph and I estimate the contact time of media is only around 4 to 5 minutes. In addition, Since the flow rate is so fast, I need enough filter to stop all organic waste from just going back to the pond. As the biological jap mat filters which will act as both mechanical and biological filter, even the biological organic waste that gets trap in the jap matts will be broken down by oxidation and with the use of facultative bacteria that I employ the organic waste will be dissolved without releasing any toxins to the water, Anaeroxic conditions are therefore deterred. And with a daily total drain and 24 hour water drip plus weekely pullout of the jap mat modules, not much waste will accumulate to cause tracking of water in the filter that may cause the rise of bad anaerobic bacteria. If the pump flow was slower, I would of course reduce the filter media and size of the filter bay.

    The 80 liters of siporax that will be used is to remove any ammonia that be released in the according to manufacturer is good for 16 tons. All of these siporax are presently being cultured in my 3ton QT where my kois are residing. Despite being overstocked and fed heavily, the water parameters are very good with nitrate at only 0 to 5ppm even with just 10 percent water change a day. Never had any problems of green, or yellowing water while wall algae cant even grow. Didnt even use any UV. Growth rate is good while colors and shine of the kois are exceptional as well.

  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro HDCu,

    If you can clean the japmat regulary, then it is no problem. You may carry on.

    I also use basillus strain bacteria to control fish waste in pond.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • boykoiboykoi August 2012
    Posts: 186
    nice design bro HDCU.14 japmatts,is a lot. a sheet can take out an estimate 100 grams of food a day.yours would be 1.4K even not considering other filter medias.thats a lot of matts to clean out,and those matts arent the best maintenance wise.matala mats,like what im planning would be better,and having an empty chamber as bro harry suggests after mech filter and after bio will i think help you more.i have this set up now with empty chamber filters since im stll saving up for matala mats,have to import from taiwan as its not available here in our country.i only have 1 sack K1 which can culture 500grams and a BS before returns.even at twice turnover,settlement can still help if you have a sieve as frontliners.IMHO having a good mech will help the bio not be overworked, and im not talking bout the media but the person cleaning them hehehe.in a years time,the jmatts wont be sturdy enough with constant cleaning

    brushes are ok,but i suggest,like what i learnt here about having a sieve.i have mine,2x5 ft long alum screen on alum frames,easy to slide and wash.i dont even use brushes as its of little use if its just 3 ft long,its also harder to clean and the bristles fold overtime.2 sieves washed even just weekly as what im doing makes wonders.
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro Boykoi,

    Many manufacture always give gimmick to sell more media. Please do check you ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. It all should be ok, then why need put more media? Which mean useless wastte of money and work, since u already have sieve as MF.

    Better save the fund for later upgrading to quality fishes.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,112
    Bro Boykoi,

    Yes, one sheet of matt can take away 100 grams of food a day but that would depend on several factors like how the sheets are arranged and the flowrate as well. Since my setup is a horizontal flow in a long and narrow pathway(4.5 meters per module), the water that passes thru the brushes will mostly travel in between the slots of the japanes mat. Because its a long path, I expect most of the waste will just settle down near the two drain are located since there is considerably less turbulence instead of being trapped inside the matts. The small fines that are harder to settle will be trapped by a secondary finer polyester mat located on the first layer of the shower filter. Meanwhile, the strong aeration in between the mats and the daily drain will also ensure that not much large particles will get to accumulate in the jap mat.

    Anyway,, I have reduced the quantity of japanese mats to 10 sheets with just five per module so I still have some more empty space to play around. According to Koihob, the number of mats I am using is equivalent for a 40 to 50 ton pond which is exactly what I wanted since my total flowrate is around 42 to 44,000 liters per hour with option to add two more submersible pumps that can increase flowrate through the filters even more. I was also looking for the matala but could not find here. I will experiment in strenghtening to mats with fiberglass resins. I want the mats as stiff as possible.

    With regards to seives, The filter bay also has a slot where I can drop in a stainless seive anytime. However ill use it when I find it necessary. Note that there is no UV lights installed.



    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-14 02:14:33 pm
  • boykoiboykoi August 2012
    Posts: 186
    thanks for the suggestion bro harry.the matala matts is needed since im stuck at feeding 400grams.the water goes south if fed more than that,and fines are still needed to be trapped,thus matala is the best option.with matala matts,i think you already know that a sheet of it is just half of a full japmat sheet,but have the same bio footprint.therefore instead of 20 japmatts,10 matala sheets can do the trick on a tighter filter space

    bro HDCU,10 sheets is quite ok,and so with the savings hehehe.what i also suggest bro,like what i did,is do put media to your pond one at a time.then when you have kois already,and youve gotten NPS to mature filter,push the limits of your bio by adding jmatts.in my case,only the K1 served as bio,the rest mechanical and it was easier for me to see the limits,or the mistakes of my filter.then i took it from there to conclude,that the matala mats,and 10 of these are needed to push my feeding to twice than what im feeding now,as well as an extra airpump and a secondary pump to push turnover to once every 40minutes.youre pond water is the best evidence of what is needed.its great to know your pond limits since you wold know the options,extra matts?extra pump or airpump perhaps?its up to you.just my 2 cents worth advice if it helps

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