• urbaneffectsurbaneffects May 2014
    Posts: 134
    Bros. Its been our target to get 0 ammonia in our pond water. I have tried changing 20% water, increase bio filtration. I feed 3 times a day. My normal ammonia range is at 1-1.5. Even with 3 days fast. Ammo still remains at lower level, at times still at 1. Is 0 Ammonia really achievable in reality with normal feeding?
  • TomyCTomyC May 2014
    Posts: 103
    0.000000 Ammonia is probably impossible since fish gives off ammonia all the time. However, we can deduce minimal or "zero" ammonia through the primitive test kits.

    There are many factors that can be keeping your ammonia levels at such a level even with a 3 days fast.

    1) Is this a new pond?
    2) What is your stocking rate?
    3) How are you mechanically filtering your pond?
    4) What, and how does your biofilter work? Its efficiency can greatly influence your ammonia levels.
  • MfwleeMfwlee May 2014
    Posts: 355
    In reality, zero ammonia is not possible as there will always be some ammonia present in the pond because of the presence of our fish. If we have fish, we will have some ammonia present because it is a natural occurrence.
    What is very important however is that the Ammonia levels do not get harmful to our fish.

    On my API test solutions, a 0 ppm actually means that the level of ammonia is too small to be detected by the solutions. This is the benchmark that I and many others use, and we get worried even if it reaches the next level, 0.25 ppm.

    So the answer is, no, it is almost impossible to achieve a zero level of ammonia, but with a matured filter, and everything working as planned, it is normal to achieve a level that cannot be detected by the test solutions we use. This " undetectable " level is often shown as a zero.

    On your part, size of pond, size of filter, filter materials used, water flow rate, fish stocking levels, maturity of filter, will all work together to give you the results.

    As a completely different course of action - try to borrow somebody else's test kit to see whether you get the same results as well. It has happened to me before - keep stuff for too long. :-D
    Mike Lee
  • urbaneffectsurbaneffects May 2014
    Posts: 134
    Bro Tommy C

    1.Old Pond
    2.Overstock.. Well over
    3. Matala Mat
    4. Bakki Shower with bacteria House.
    I presume the stocking level is the main cause.. However, we read articles of 0ppm ammonia in koi pond and to achieve that, means v v min feed. Koi growth will be compromised..
  • niveknivek May 2014
    Posts: 1,251
    1. What is your water turnover rate?
    2. How often do you wash 1st chamber?
    Post edited by nivek at 2014-05-10 12:19:15 pm
  • TomyCTomyC May 2014
    Posts: 103
    Bro urban effects,

    If you are using Matala mats as the first step in your filtration, then it will primarily be a mechanical filtration since it will be clogged.

    Since you are overstocked, I'm not sure if adding more BHM will help since there's a certain law of diminishing return within your current filter system.

    Your koi's growth is already compromised due to your overstocking. If you want to improve water quality and growth without more complications, the easiest way is to let water trickle in and overflow 24/7. 10-15% pond volume of tap water everyday is fine as long as it's let in gradually.
  • ikankoikauikankoikau May 2014
    Posts: 1,053

    Certainly your pond will get continuous NH3 NH4 as long there are fishes in it. Without feeding, it will much lesser. What is also important in your pond system is the continuous flow of "all" water into the filter. In order words, no stagnant water in the pond(and in the filter too).

    The best way to test the effectiveness of your filtration system is to test ammonia level of your incoming water to the pond(ex pump chamber). You should have zero ammonia and nitrite on standard test kit. Even though Nitrate is not poisonous, high in nitrate can discourage growth and water quality.

    To get real value of your water quality, you need to get the test done by pro water tester or lab.
    Post edited by ikankoikau at 2014-05-11 12:55:19 am
  • frostbitezfrostbitez May 2014
    Posts: 109
    for me ammonia level must be zero on test kit readings after exiting filter...if not you need reduce feeding or fishes or get a better filter
  • ShukriShukri May 2014
    Posts: 4,881
    Depending on the quality and accuracy of the test kits. In theory, Ammonia levels cant be zero because fishes shit and urinate all the time. If the colony of bacteria in the filter chambers responsible for converting the waste products are in abundance (which is not unusual), an then with sufficient Nitrosomonas colonies of Bacteria, the Ammonia level should be within the safety limits. These colonies of bacteria are very prolific and can be in huge numbers in no time........... It is the Nitro bacter bacteria that are slow in colonizing the filter chambers...........these are responsible of converting Nitrite to Nitrate...........

    What I meant was for the Nitrosomonas to be abundance........ these are the ones responsible of converting Ammonia to Nitrite........
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
    Post edited by Shukri at 2014-05-12 12:10:54 pm
  • jaysonjayson May 2014
    Posts: 106
    If you get 0 ammonia our filter bacterial will die cause they do not have food.
    and you filter also can not mature.
    my 2 cent :)
  • urbaneffectsurbaneffects May 2014
    Posts: 134
    Interesting comment bro Jayson. Definately looking at things from a different angle.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Sign In Apply for Membership