HDCu New Pond build
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-06-07 02:54:41 pm
  • lautslauts June 2012
    Posts: 1,248
    Bro HDCu,

    Have you considered a T opening into the filter chamber and ends at sump chamber ?
    This way you can flush the BD piping as well as flush the pond bottom.

    Also consider 6'' instead of 4" for BD piping ? Both size has its advantage but i find 6" more flexible for use should you decide to increase turnover etc. Difficult to get settlement if water too fast flow thro filter chambers. Settlements in the BD piping is good ( this is controversial though) , with T at filter and ending at sump , a good flush cleans the BD , leaving your filters needing less cleaning. But this needs some piping calculation to get right.

    ts
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Darling,
    I dont get it...U said vertical river flow...What is that? and how do U achieve it?
    I can see returns on all corners...pointing at each other...and BD in the center...can U explain how this will work? How is the water going to flow?
    Bro Lauts,
    I did not understand what U are saying....
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Lauts,

    I did consider a 6 inch pipe but ended up with two 4 inch pipe to serve 5600GPH pump. I reckon this is more than enough to get a pressure suction to constantly push any dirt out of the pipes. In the event that the event suction is still too strong to disturb the settlement, I will just add some baffle.

    Sis Neli,

    It should read horizontal flow or diagonal flow and not vertical. My mistake. Actually the flow is in the form of a "S" with a water pressure slightly higher as the depth going to the left side decreases instead of a straight horizontal flow which is found in ERIC system. The sloping daigonal design of the filter bay is design also for easier flushing of dirt going to the drain pipes.

    With regards to the TPR or tangental pond return, I will be putting a rotational/adjustable outlet pipe and gate valves at four of these corners TPR so I can choose and rotate whatever flow pattern( clockwise, counterclockwise, left to right, or right to left). I have the option to increase flow of the TPR while also lessenening the flow to the bakki showers or vice versa.

    The two bottom drain with very steep inclination from side to center is design for faster and thorough suction of all corners regardless of the flow direction of water from the TPR or air bubble position.

    The design also has option to add in the future two more pumps by separating the bakki shower design and the horizontal river flow filtration thereby possibly increasing turnover rate to 3 to 4x depending on the water drawdown on the filter.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-06-07 08:29:29 pm
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Thanks,
    Now I get it...U will have one circle around both drains...That is what I saw in Japan at Mr Tanaka's pond...even in his 90000l pond with 3 BD...his flow is oval around the 3 BD...
    About the erick stream or river flow in the filters...That is what I want to do too...With a pump dedicated to each filter, with an option to add one more pump for Bukki. I am putting two x4" pipes between the chambers, one higher one lower...with a T at the end...short pipes at each end of the T blocked with lots of slots to distribute the water both horizontally and vertically in the filter chamber..
    Never seen it done...dont know if it will work..alternative is to make on one side of the chamber a slot like post office box like the erick filter...but I think my idea will distribute the flow better.
  • monscinemonscine June 2012
    Posts: 223
    Bro HDCu,

    May I know why you choose to put the depth on 1.8m? Is it because you concern on the volume of the water?
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Monscine,

    I made it at 1.8m at the deepest part to create a stronger bowl flush effect with 1.4m at the sides sloping to 1.8m. Also, since my ground is solid bedrock, the water will be much cooler at deeper depth even without use of chiller or fibreglassing the pond at deeper temperature because of heat conduction. My aim is to achieve 24 to 25 C without any chiller.

    I dont really buy yet the arguement that pond deeper than four feet causes swim bladder problems as Ive seen other deep ponds with huge kois with no swim bladder problems.

    Lower dissolved oxygen at the deeper water will be solved as the TPR will be position slightly downward to push highly oxygenated water from filter downwards and a higher than normal water turnover while japanese airtubes should produce fine bubbles.

    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-06-08 07:25:32 am
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Sorry to but in...In Japan ponds are...at Oishi Koi farm...their shallowest pond is...2m deep...Mr Tanakas pond is 2.5 meter deep...His Koi are in it for 4 years now...and have won many awards at All Japan...He is a Japanese hobbyist...very serious one...and his pond was designed by Japanese professional pond builder.
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Bro ICU why not put second deeper return...TPR...He he he!, directed slightly downwards...at 50cm above floor?
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Sis Neli,

    The TRP are just 50cm below water surface level. As pressure is higher at greater depth, the waterflow output of the sequence pump would be considerably less. It would be more practical for me to just drop several wavemakers sucking in fine airbubbles at the bottom of the pond.

    I am not that comfortable at going deeper than 1.8m because of the potential lower dissolved oxygen at the bottom.
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Bro,
    I was not suggesting U go deeper...mine will be also 1.8 meter...I was trying to reassure u that that depth is OK, judging by what I saw...
    Is sequence a low pressure pump?
    From the research i did , I found a formula that says that the velocity of the water in the pond...is directly proportional to the velocity of water coming out of the TPR...
    So I have decided for my pond...better few TPR, with high velocity than many with lower velocity...they will do better job of cleaning the floor...JMHO.
    So I will even reduce my TPR to 1.5 " at the end...to get better velocities...
  • HDCuHDCu June 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Sis Neli,

    The number of TPR would depend on the number of corners of your pond. If its a circular pond, even one strong TPR would do well already.
  • NeliNeli June 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Not necessarily Darling,
    Look at this...it works! Not the best but good enough... I think it will depend on the shape of the pond ..yes! But a lot more on the velocity of the TPR...
    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7137/TPR Flow.jpg
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 03:41:52 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 02:35:04 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 03:19:38 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 03:10:24 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-12 04:35:38 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Thats it for now. I'll post some new updates in the coming days.
  • pslongpslong August 2012
    Posts: 288
    Wow! Nice details!
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro HDCu,
    The pond paint look like not smooth. Are you using roller to paint?
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Harry,

    I think they used brush. They had a hard time with the epoxy primer as it set too fast. I told them not to thin the primer as the it will create pinholes when it dries and problem with adhesion. However, I checked the final paint job. Its not slippery smooth but Its not rough either. The bond is very strong.
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    I use spray gun with big orifice, specially use for epoxy, resin (fiberglass) or lacquer.
    It spray a lot compare to normal spray gun, 1 gravity based can is use to spray less than 5minutes, clean the can with thinner and mix another round.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • ShukriShukri August 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro HDCu,
    Really looked real modern setup with tiles and all........Hopefully, you have considered the ease of maintenance to come with it.......
    So far looks good bro......
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • mangkellmangkell August 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Bead Filter promoter....... Beware.... :-D
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • ashfaqashfaq August 2012
    Posts: 799
    Brother Aznaan you are also one the promoter of Thor-x :-))
    Thanks,
    Ashfaq from India-Chennai
  • ShukriShukri August 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Did I mention anything with regards to Bead filter here?
    Or is EASE of Maintenance equals Bead filter? I don't think so.
    More of a Bead filter are easy to maintain, and so are many other systems I think. :-D
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
    Post edited by Shukri at 2012-08-13 10:48:07 pm
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117

    In designing the pond, I have considered three things. 1. Provide the best water condition for growth and improve the quality of the koi at a lower energy footprint 2. No interuption of filtration during cleanup and 3. ease of maintenance. 4. ability to adapt

    Im presently thinking if I can make a DIY cleaning high pressure spray contraption that can be placed above and in between the module and after the brush so that after the water is drained out I can just activate it and all the remaining dirt that are trapped will drain away. That way I dont need to pull out the jap mats or take out the jet spray.
    :-?
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-13 08:06:01 pm
  • mangkellmangkell August 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Yes... Yes...

    Only the Ones who eat Chilli will feel the Hot.... He.. He.. ;-)

    Any translation to BM?

    THOR-OX™ :-t is different Bro Ashfaq.... Kind of Value for Money......

    Other Good system like Bead Filter, FATS, ERICS..... They are Money for Value.... Got It? :-?
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    "Im presently thinking if I can make a DIY cleaning high pressure spray contraption that can be placed above and in between the module and after the brush so that after the water is drained out I can just activate it and all the remaining dirt that are trapped will drain away. That way I dont need to pull out the jap mats or take out the jet spray. "

    Cannot totally clean it bro, have to take out and clean it. But cleaning thiss way, especially with ChinaImat, it maybe last for 1year only.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Harry,

    Actually, I was thinking of spraying the japanese mats with fiberglass resins before using it to make it really stiff and longer lasting. What do you think?
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Still cannot work,fiberglass resin is actually easily to break, that why we need a few layer of mat to make fiberglass stronger.

    i think you better change to matala mat if you can find one. Matala mat better but cost more. I usually use coarse one, for better distribution flow. But this can cause problem if your mechanical filtration is not powerful enough. If i have big enough filtration chamber, using bioball can be an option. And try using minimum media filtration first, 5pcs of japmat is actually enough for nitrification purpose. Do test your ammonia,nitrite and nitrate daily, and see the result.

    You can save extra bucks for later improvement, in case you need to add another equipment. 5 pcs japmat + your shower is already "overstock". Yesterday i just got angry, when some dealer came to pond that i built and maintenance. He kept telling the owner, not enough biological media. And yes, ihave a few empty chamber which i use for settlement fine particles. This dealer keep saying, it is a waste, build a chamber but not putting anything. The owner also add 4tiers of BS without consult with me a few month earlier.

    When the owner confront me and asking to put more media. I answer with most logical answer even i think a small child can understand. I did testing ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 25ppm. Adding media as this stage is waste on money, what you expect to culture? Bacteria? Can this nitrification bacteria live without any ammonia? Nitrate is usually below 10, now become 25ppm because i found out, that BS media is never cleaned. The accumulated debris that trap in BH and other stone will always form ammonia.

    Adding overstocked media not always good, and if not properly clean, it make pond condition worst. If you planned to use japmat as mechanical filter, it is fine but you have to clean it regularly.
    I am not suggesting you believe everything i write here. But do test and check, and hopefully you understand what i mean.

    Cheers
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Harry,

    I do know what you mean with regards to organic waste that sticks to filter media will release ammonia that needs to be taken care of. My problem is that each pump is rated at 5800gph and I estimate the contact time of media is only around 4 to 5 minutes. In addition, Since the flow rate is so fast, I need enough filter to stop all organic waste from just going back to the pond. As the biological jap mat filters which will act as both mechanical and biological filter, even the biological organic waste that gets trap in the jap matts will be broken down by oxidation and with the use of facultative bacteria that I employ the organic waste will be dissolved without releasing any toxins to the water, Anaeroxic conditions are therefore deterred. And with a daily total drain and 24 hour water drip plus weekely pullout of the jap mat modules, not much waste will accumulate to cause tracking of water in the filter that may cause the rise of bad anaerobic bacteria. If the pump flow was slower, I would of course reduce the filter media and size of the filter bay.

    The 80 liters of siporax that will be used is to remove any ammonia that be released in the according to manufacturer is good for 16 tons. All of these siporax are presently being cultured in my 3ton QT where my kois are residing. Despite being overstocked and fed heavily, the water parameters are very good with nitrate at only 0 to 5ppm even with just 10 percent water change a day. Never had any problems of green, or yellowing water while wall algae cant even grow. Didnt even use any UV. Growth rate is good while colors and shine of the kois are exceptional as well.

  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro HDCu,

    If you can clean the japmat regulary, then it is no problem. You may carry on.

    I also use basillus strain bacteria to control fish waste in pond.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • boykoiboykoi August 2012
    Posts: 186
    nice design bro HDCU.14 japmatts,is a lot. a sheet can take out an estimate 100 grams of food a day.yours would be 1.4K even not considering other filter medias.thats a lot of matts to clean out,and those matts arent the best maintenance wise.matala mats,like what im planning would be better,and having an empty chamber as bro harry suggests after mech filter and after bio will i think help you more.i have this set up now with empty chamber filters since im stll saving up for matala mats,have to import from taiwan as its not available here in our country.i only have 1 sack K1 which can culture 500grams and a BS before returns.even at twice turnover,settlement can still help if you have a sieve as frontliners.IMHO having a good mech will help the bio not be overworked, and im not talking bout the media but the person cleaning them hehehe.in a years time,the jmatts wont be sturdy enough with constant cleaning

    brushes are ok,but i suggest,like what i learnt here about having a sieve.i have mine,2x5 ft long alum screen on alum frames,easy to slide and wash.i dont even use brushes as its of little use if its just 3 ft long,its also harder to clean and the bristles fold overtime.2 sieves washed even just weekly as what im doing makes wonders.
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur August 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro Boykoi,

    Many manufacture always give gimmick to sell more media. Please do check you ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. It all should be ok, then why need put more media? Which mean useless wastte of money and work, since u already have sieve as MF.

    Better save the fund for later upgrading to quality fishes.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Boykoi,

    Yes, one sheet of matt can take away 100 grams of food a day but that would depend on several factors like how the sheets are arranged and the flowrate as well. Since my setup is a horizontal flow in a long and narrow pathway(4.5 meters per module), the water that passes thru the brushes will mostly travel in between the slots of the japanes mat. Because its a long path, I expect most of the waste will just settle down near the two drain are located since there is considerably less turbulence instead of being trapped inside the matts. The small fines that are harder to settle will be trapped by a secondary finer polyester mat located on the first layer of the shower filter. Meanwhile, the strong aeration in between the mats and the daily drain will also ensure that not much large particles will get to accumulate in the jap mat.

    Anyway,, I have reduced the quantity of japanese mats to 10 sheets with just five per module so I still have some more empty space to play around. According to Koihob, the number of mats I am using is equivalent for a 40 to 50 ton pond which is exactly what I wanted since my total flowrate is around 42 to 44,000 liters per hour with option to add two more submersible pumps that can increase flowrate through the filters even more. I was also looking for the matala but could not find here. I will experiment in strenghtening to mats with fiberglass resins. I want the mats as stiff as possible.

    With regards to seives, The filter bay also has a slot where I can drop in a stainless seive anytime. However ill use it when I find it necessary. Note that there is no UV lights installed.



    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-14 02:14:33 pm
  • boykoiboykoi August 2012
    Posts: 186
    thanks for the suggestion bro harry.the matala matts is needed since im stuck at feeding 400grams.the water goes south if fed more than that,and fines are still needed to be trapped,thus matala is the best option.with matala matts,i think you already know that a sheet of it is just half of a full japmat sheet,but have the same bio footprint.therefore instead of 20 japmatts,10 matala sheets can do the trick on a tighter filter space

    bro HDCU,10 sheets is quite ok,and so with the savings hehehe.what i also suggest bro,like what i did,is do put media to your pond one at a time.then when you have kois already,and youve gotten NPS to mature filter,push the limits of your bio by adding jmatts.in my case,only the K1 served as bio,the rest mechanical and it was easier for me to see the limits,or the mistakes of my filter.then i took it from there to conclude,that the matala mats,and 10 of these are needed to push my feeding to twice than what im feeding now,as well as an extra airpump and a secondary pump to push turnover to once every 40minutes.youre pond water is the best evidence of what is needed.its great to know your pond limits since you wold know the options,extra matts?extra pump or airpump perhaps?its up to you.just my 2 cents worth advice if it helps
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Boykoi,

    I already have 10 large kois swimming in my QT tank and three high quality jumbo tosai waiting at two dealers facilities until my pond is done. I expect my feed rate per day will be 250g per day already for regular feeding which will increase to 400 grams in less than a year while I am aiming for nitrate level of just 5 ppm, a TDS of 75 to 90ppm, ph at 7.0 to 7.4, KH at 50ppm, and temp at around 23 to 26C and daily cleaning time of less than 12 minutes per day and weekly cleaning time of less than 15 mins without any filtration interuption.
  • boykoiboykoi August 2012
    Posts: 186
    looks like your pond can more than ably take that feed rate or even more bro,thats based on your pond design.expect your pond and filter to be modified from time to time.as to my own experience,its a never ending tweeking and fine tuning when you build your own pond
  • SsmannSsmann August 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro, very nice and so well thought out. Lotsa technical stuff here that a novice like me needs to get my head around....but it sure looks like a winner! Well done bro and wish you much joy with the new pond!
  • HDCuHDCu August 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-08-26 10:29:24 am
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Heres new video update of the pond.
    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jzxthplWH8I
  • smokersmoker September 2012
    Posts: 715
    Bro HDCu, nice setup ! very neat, very well planned. Nice kois and looks like more are on the way. Congrats Bro, wish you enjoy the pond with living jeweleries !
  • niveknivek September 2012
    Posts: 1,251
    Nice one bro HDCu. Lots of space for more kois :)
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Thanks. I have four high quality tosais still at two dealers facilities while I am culling four of my male kois left at the QT tank.

    The fishless cycle went without any hiccup and so far I have not seen any abnormal behavior on the new pond residents. Ammonia and nitrite are still at zero while nitrate is just 10 ppm.
  • wyinwyin September 2012
    Posts: 78
    Hi HDCu,

    Very neat. There seem to be a black PVC pipe circling the surface of the pond, any specific function of this pipe? Very calm and clean surface, do you have air curtain and surface skimmer installed?

    Regards,
    Wei Yin
    Post edited by wyin at 2012-09-27 02:40:07 pm
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Wyin,

    There are three air curtains positioned on three sides of the pond pumping out 220 liters per minute of air. There is also a bakki shower The black pvc pipe makes the surface water very calm increasing the visibility despitethe strong aeration. It just floats on the surface of the water. I have one surface skimmer made from two plastic 6inch diameter plant pot. connected on a 4 inch pvc pipe that helps skim also any oily surface.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-09-27 02:38:25 pm
  • wyinwyin September 2012
    Posts: 78
    Hi HDCu,

    I see the air curtains now. Lots of air with bakki shower, I guess your pond must be saturated with O2. I understand from some bros that air blowers do increase the temperature of the pond. Are you facing similar problem or you have found ways to overcome this issue?

    Regards,
    Wei Yin
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur September 2012
    Posts: 808
    Good job
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro wyin,

    All my air blowers are cooled with fan to prevent them from heating and to allow it to suck in cool air. Pond temp now ranges from 27 to 28 but as soon as I install the fans on the bakki shower, I expect the pond water temp to go down.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-09-27 03:56:51 pm
  • grinkz01grinkz01 September 2012
    Posts: 530
    bro hdcu.nice pond and clever trick to keep water surface calm.:-)

    1) by installing black pvc on its surface, how the surface skimmer works?I assume u must fed ur koi in the center part of pond right?

    2) luv ur kohaku...how big is she?
    3) what is ur pond length x width (excude filter)
    4) pls update the topview of ur filter chamber.
    thanks
  • grinkz01grinkz01 September 2012
    Posts: 530
    double post, sorry
    Post edited by grinkz01 at 2012-09-27 06:49:55 pm
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro grinkz01,

    1. The black pipe has an entrance to the middle at the opposite side of the skimmer. The dirt go around the sides. This way the food put in the middle does not go directly to the skimmer
    2. There are four kohakus right now in the pond. The two step big and with girth won the best kohaku variety and the 5 step won the wakagoi trophy here in Philippine koi show early this year.The two step I think is now at 59 to 60cm while the five step is at around 54 to 55 cm.
    3. pond size is 3 x 4 x 1.75m
    4. will post picture of filter in the morning.
  • mangkellmangkell September 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Wow Bro HDCu,

    30ton of water for 6 future Jumbos..... :O

    That's called a Luxury... Say no to Overstock... :-bd


    Hopefully your FATS will help U to get a FAT & healthy jumbos...


    Byway, how far r U from the great Pinatubo Mountain....
    Saw a National Geographic documentary on Ultimate Disaster....
    Pls protect yr koi from the hot Lava.... X_X

    But cold Lava rock are good for kois... :-D
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
    Post edited by mangkell at 2012-09-28 12:07:04 am
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar September 2012
    Posts: 1,763
    Looking gud bro, good job done... (Y)

    Would copy few concept for my future pond, hope you don't mind bro :-D
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Mangkell,

    Mt Pinatubo is like 180km from my house. However, I remember when it exploded the cars in the city were covered with lots of ash. I hope there is no repeat or else lots of kois in the city will perish.

    Anyway, its not really my priority to push the kois to become jumbo in the next few years. I want very good water parameters and water quality always and to appreciate quality gosanke kois swimming healthy. If they reach jumbo then it would be bonus.

    Bro Bthineshkumar,

    Thanks. Some of the concepts I employed in my pond are also what I learned in many koi forums including koianswers.com.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-09-28 12:42:38 am
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    just sharing my latest aquisition to my pond. :p

    Any comments? hehe.

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1vGJmjxa8wg
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar September 2012
    Posts: 1,763
    Is my eyes playing tricks or is that a TURTLE!!!!!

    Can they get along with Koi?
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Its an albino chinese softshell turtle that is trained to eat floating pellets according to dealer. Its very visible in a black pond and entertaining to see it swim. Its a slow growing small turtle and would probably outlast the kois.

    After putting it in, Im now thinking whether to remove the turtle from the pond. Not because it bothers the kois or the kois bother it but it seems to sometimes hide under the bottom drain concrete cover. I am afraid that It will get flush into the settlement chamber or gets stuck inside the four inch pipe.

    :-?
  • AlvinAlvin September 2012
    Posts: 84
    It's best not put in the pond together with koi. I have a pig nose turtle ( about 8 inch from head to tail) and it eat floating pellet food. There is one occasion where it bite off one of my koi tail.
  • mangkellmangkell September 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Agreed... Turtle can harm your koi.... Any possible danger.... Take it out.... X(
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • MikeMike September 2012
    Posts: 346
    Alvin, you sure save some of my koi tail.
    I am about to put my pig nosed turtle into my main pond from its aquarium when I see HDCu vdo. I think its best to separate them eh.
  • AlvinAlvin September 2012
    Posts: 84
    Mike,
    Turtle is a no no [-X . Well, It does look nice from top view. In the end, I sold off my turtle last month.
  • HDCuHDCu September 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    I have returned the albino softshell today to the dealer. Oh well, it only stayed for a day in the pond.. ;-)
  • NeliNeli October 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Bro Teacher,
    With lap top problems, this is the time I have come to see your build again...starting from page two...missed a lot...and I love your thread and pond...
    Since there are so many pages...bear with me...I suspect might be lots of questions...
    First of all I would like to congratulate U on such a neat work...and well built and designed pond!
    U should be very proud! I would be if I manage to achieve such a level of excellence.
    I am so tired of my builders and their sloppy work...but seeing your pond....I got inspired again to strive for excellence...I was a bit down...frustrated...but now...I am going to try again for better results.
    I never saw your flower bed....can U believe it? And in the spur of the moment...did something very similar...u must have sent it to me telepathically.
    I just wish I saw how U did the filters...instead of up and down...left and right flow...does it mean that U have to drain all the filters at ones?
    I made mine up and down...I guess it will be OK???
    Q:
    How will u manage to clean the filters without interapting the filtration?

    U said U want to make a contraption to clean the filters with jet spray...I left one exit from the pump with a valve...plan to put a reducer and use it for cleaning the floor of the filters...since I have two parallel filters for each pump...I can have flow in the pump while cleaning individual chambers...
    Do U have any better ideas?

    Bro Harry said he uses bacillus type bacteria...is it lactobacillus type...???? I have a friend in the UK, veteran Koi breeder...35 years....he puts yogurt for the same purpose ones a week in his filters...I spoke in Japan to few breeders...asked them about yogurt...
    They told me they put it in the food but for their special Koi only and in the pond...and they said it is very good.
    Since I have started giving yogurt in the food of my Koi...I am very happy....no health issues what so ever...and they love it.

    If I need to put UV lights...I never put them in the old pond...they are brand new in the box one year now...I will put them suspended over the water like the Japanese breeders...not in pipes...they work better that way.

    Is the shower the only return to your pond, or U have some more?

    How does the black PVC pipe that floats keep the surface calm? I did not understand that one.
    Maybe U can explain it for a dummy?


    Post edited by Neli at 2012-10-01 06:52:53 pm
  • HDCuHDCu October 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Hi Sis Neli,

    "How will u manage to clean the filters without interapting the filtration? "
    There are basically two filter system in tandem. Whenever I clean one, I dont even need to shut down the pump. First I put back the standpipe to stop the water from bottom drain and the side drain/surface skimmer. As the water in the filter goes down, I pull out the drain pipe. This creates a very strong backwash that drains the water in the whole chamber(settlement and biochamber) in less than 30 secs. As the water level goes down, the external pump automatically cuts off preventing any damage to the pump. As the water in the filter are drained, i put back the standpipe drain to block the the drain. I then pull out the two pipe and water from the pond rushes back to the filter chamber in less than 30 secs. The external pump then automatically activates and then I close the filter cover. The whole process takes me just 5 to 10 minutes a day.

    With regards to the spray, I dont need it anymore. The filters daily cleaning does the job well enough.

    Miracle animal has lactobacillus bacteria.

    I can manipulate the return either thru showers or middle pond return clockwise or counterclockwise or combination.

    The black pvc pipe acts as a wave and bubble diffuser making the surface much calmer and the view much better without affecting the aeration on the pond. You can see some of the pictures where there is no surface floating pipe. I prefer the calm water. You can try it.

    My pond has no UV whatsoever and the clarity is still superb. I attribute this to the filtration.





  • NeliNeli October 2012
    Posts: 1,205
    Thanks Bro,
    Your air hose is around the wall??? So the pipe prevents the bubbles from going to the center of the pond...??? What about the BD bubles? Do I put a ring on top of the water?
    I am having more or less the same system with the stand pipes...plus the airlifts on the other BD pipe...
    Need to make a huge BD cover from concrete...he he he!
    Post edited by Neli at 2012-10-02 01:53:11 pm
  • HDCuHDCu October 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Yes. the airhoses are located on the sides and the pipe prevent the bubbles from going to the center. There are no air diffuser on top of the bottom drain. With this setup. Ive noticed that as soon as the koi release waste while swimming, it sinks slowly and gets suck by the bottom drain. If I put the diffuser on top of the bottom drain, the waste will circulate longer in the pond and may even disintegrate.

    I had been warned that airhose gets blocked easily but so far Ive not notice any output difference. Most probably as not much dirt or algae accumulates on the pond and the air released per airhose is pretty strong.

    Also, I checked my total dissolve solids and im registering just 65 tds with ph of 7.2.

  • harry_luhurharry_luhur October 2012
    Posts: 808
    TDS 65 is good, but can rise due to dilluted mineral from koi food, but still manageable under 100ppm. pH 7,2 is a normal for now, but after sometimes with acid produce from bio bacteria, it can lower from now. But all desirable, just alter later if needed. Good job bro
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu October 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Harry,

    I would like to ask what would be the level of phospate ppm to keep the water from turning to that slight yellowish tint? Aside from water change, use of O3,, is there any cheap chemical to remove phosphate?
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-10-02 06:00:40 pm
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur October 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro HDCu,

    we rarely measure phospate level in pond. 1 ppm may induce algae, 2 ppm will make algae flourish. Phospate level is not an issue for well maintain pond, so i think it wouldn't cause any problem in your pond. Phosphate usually added to fish food and it is the source of phospate in our pond. I also encounter many water source is contain phosphate (from lab report). Well aerated and circulated pond also help to prevent phosphate build up.
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu November 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Heres my update on my FATS(Fan assisted trickle shower)

    Installed four IP 56 fans. Temperature reading dropped from 27.4 to 26.2. If I close the fans in the morning the temperature goes up again to 27.4. Temperature reading now at 25.9 after running for a week. Temperature pretty stable. Outside temperature range from 32 to 24(at midnight till early mornng) with sunny weather for the week.

    Appetite of the kois improved and they are more active than before.

    [IMG]http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/sacicu/283e0544444d5c1b7a8280d3df88fd65.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/sacicu/023453077ec057c05983165b12de89f5.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/sacicu/efb31a5f3145c69ea52ea6fecaee22c4.jpg[/IMG]
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-11-17 07:15:39 am
  • mangkellmangkell November 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • ashfaqashfaq November 2012
    Posts: 799
    Looks brother
    Thanks,
    Ashfaq from India-Chennai
  • mangkellmangkell November 2012
    Posts: 1,221
    Didn't anybody tell U that my CastleMilia pond is Finally not leaking anymore from tonight..?? :-"
    Mickeyko Ducati-Kujamon Chagreemon Brabus#Sexy-Robust
  • harry_luhurharry_luhur November 2012
    Posts: 808
    Bro HDCU,

    So many foam on water surface?
    Regards,

    Harry Luhur
  • HDCuHDCu November 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Harry,

    The pond was recently salted as I added a new fish that was already quarantined for a week in the quarantine tank. But two days after introduce to main pond, all kois parked and I had to resalt the pond and put some stress coat. Next day, All the kois were fine already.

    Now I am administering masoten after finding two argulus in one of the kohaku.

    This hobby is indeed challenging.
  • ClearWaterClearWater January 2013
    Posts: 2
    Very impressive pond set-up dude. keep us posted.
  • idrisidris January 2013
    Posts: 1,182
    bro HDCU..pond looking superb! ^:)^
  • niveknivek January 2013
    Posts: 1,251
    Simply superb bro HDCU (Y)
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar January 2013
    Posts: 1,763
    The koi's are calm and heathy. Great work bro (Y)
  • HDCuHDCu February 2013
    Posts: 1,117
    Here are six of my entries to the 2013 Philippine koi show
    http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=pKvnb_w0IDw

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7iheJud_fuE

  • HDCuHDCu February 2013
    Posts: 1,117
    Here are three of the six. They are all size 5(50 to 60cm)
    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pKvnb_w0IDw
  • vic_slash20vic_slash20 February 2013
    Posts: 118
    very nice... thumbs up!!! :-D
  • HDCuHDCu February 2013
    Posts: 1,117
    My sanke( named I-V)was judged the Seigyo(adult) champion while the showa (named her Gandara) in the same tank was accorded Kokugyo winner at size 5
    Post edited by HDCu at 2013-02-11 11:09:32 am
  • megatronmegatron February 2013
    Posts: 832
    Congrats to your winning bro HDCu
    Don't ask me why!!!
  • pslongpslong February 2013
    Posts: 288
    Nice
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar February 2013
    Posts: 1,763
    Congrats on ur winning bro (Y) Bravo
  • TomyCTomyC June 2013
    Posts: 103
    How do you control the retention time on the Mats to 4-5mins with such a high turnover?
  • HDCuHDCu June 2013
    Posts: 1,117
    Hi Tomy C,

    Basically its about proper computation of flowrate, headloss and size of total filter. In my filter setup, the total area of each modules is 4.5 meters x .65meters x .9 meters for a total of 2.63 tons for an empty chamber. Once I put all the matts and brushes, I will get just 1.841 tons or 1840 liters of water(2.63 x 70%) inside this filter more or less.

    My sequence pump is rated at 5800 gph but after considering the headloss in the piping and pump up to bakki it goes down to around 5000gph more or less or just 19,000 liters per hours. This translates to 316 liters per minute of pump action. 1840 liters divided by 315 liters per minutes would give around 5.8 minutes. I can confirm this shutting down the incoming bottom drain pipe and letting the external pump go on and then time how many minutes it takes for the pump to draw out half of the water in my whole filter. Normally it takes around less than three minutes to drain half of the filter module using the pump thereby confirming my computation.

    If one would like to increase the retention time, you can either increase the filter space or reduce the flow rate of the pump using a valve or make a direction return pipe after the mechanical stage to return back to the pond thereby allowing faster mechanical filter turnover but longer bio filter retention time.
  • HDCuHDCu September 2016
    Posts: 1,117
    So after 4 years of having this pond, I finally did 2 things. One is to build a bigger pond and second is to renovate the older pond in the last 3 months.

    The newer pond is around 36 tons inclusive of filter. The design concept is still the same as my older pond. It has 2 bottom drains and each bottom drains leads to separate "ERIC style horizontal flow filter with 2 sets of "Ebrushes and 4 sets of " EMatts" on each line. Each line is pump thru by a sequence pump at 5800gallons per hour. The 2 pumps deliver water to a 6meter concrete 2 layer shower with sintered glass medias. Two 15 watts UV is installed. Cleaning takes from 2 mins(for brushes and flush) to 15 minutes to clean the whole two lines. Flowrate is around 50 minutes. It now houses 11 gosanke that range from 70cm to 85cm that were previously house in the old 20 ton pond.

    [IMG]http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/sacicu/20160927_162501.jpg[/IMG]

    The old pond was also renovated. In four years, I lost only 1 koi(grown to 84cm) due to swim bladder complications. Never had problems with any pumps or controls. The brushes and matts still looked brand new. Pond never leaked as well. I was able to grow several koi to 80 to 85cm gosanke without any body or skin deterioration.

    Among the renovation were the bakki shower was relocated with new tiles inplaced. The filter covers were replaced. The pond repainted. Filter was slightly sloped to improve flush. The matts were reduced. More green to make it softer to the eye. All previous multiple airpumps were removed. All aeration going to the pond and filters is pipe thru just one 0.5hp roots blower which powers also all the aeration of the bigger pond. Japanese airhose to the pond were replaced and pvc pipe with small holes now aerate the filter. Turnover remains the same at 30mins. Backup airpumps installed. As of the moment, no koi are house yet. I plan to house 7 or 9 koi in this pond.


    [IMG]http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/sacicu/20160927_162656.jpg[/IMG]
    Post edited by HDCu at 2016-09-30 10:40:37 pm


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